When we moved into our new house, I was most excited about the master bedroom. It. Is. HUGE. Huge to us, anyways. You have to understand that we were coming from a teensy, cramped little space that had half ceilings and was barely big enough to fit our bed. The closet was the size of a gym locker, and cramming in two adults plus three dogs was pushing it. I can make do in pretty much any living situation (EXCEPT CAMPING MY GOD WHY), but I am not going to pretend that this bedroom upgrade wasn’t the bomb diggity, because it totally was and I am smug AF about it.
There was only one thing that could bring me down from my high, and that was the fact that it was wall-to-wall carpeting in there.
Definitely not trying to hate on people who have carpet: it is quite nice under the feet, it is sound blocking, and so on and so forth. But when you have three (heavily shedding) dogs, it gets gross really fast. I’m not saying my dogs are filthy monsters — but they are dogs (and also filthy monsters). That ‘doggy smell’ clings to the carpet like I cling to the TV remote. Plus, aesthetically, it’s not my fave.
Putting down laminate wasn’t really an option, mostly because the dogs hate it (they scramble around on it like little Bambis on ice) and partly because I too am not a huge fan. So what’s a girl to do? Hardwood? I toyed with the idea, and then realized it would cost upwards of $2,000 to do just the bedroom and laughed and laughed until I was sobbing on my (carpeted) floor.
After a ton of research online, I decided to try plywood plank flooring, which is an economical solution that looks pretty nice, too. I’ve seen it done a lot of different ways and in many different finishes, and figured it would be worth a shot. Coming in at under $1 per sq/ft, it was a crazy cheap solution that had the potential to look awesome.
One of the biggest draws for me was that these floors tend to look better the more they are lived in and ‘worn’, which is huge for us. When you’re not spending a ton of cheddah (yeah I said ‘cheddah’) on new flooring, you are obviously less likely to worry about them being ruined by doggy nails.
Materials needed:
3/8″ plywood sheets: I got 10 sheets of the lowest quality grade (more on that later)
Brad nailer, 2 inch brad nails (a 2,000 pack was more than enough), and air compressor
Random orbit sander and 100-120 grit sanding pads
Compact circular saw (if you are ripping your own sheets of plywood)
Saw horses
Mitre saw
Measuring tape, hammer, carpenter’s pencil
Stain (optional: I used 2.5 quarts of Minwax Pickled Oak)
Staining pad (I used the 7″ Shur-Line pad applicator for staining and applying the clear coat and it worked amazingly well!)
Floor finish (I used Minwax Ultimate Floor Finish)
Knee pads (optional but HIGHLY recommended)
A lot of the tutorials I read were from bloggers based in the states, who were able to have Home Depot/Lowes/etc rip their plywood into planks for them. I don’t think that is an option here in Canada; there is a sign next to the big saw at Home Depot that says quite clearly “No precision cuts!”, so I was scared to ask, but who knows? Maybe they would if they weren’t crazy busy. If you have the option, I would definitely have the boards cut for you, as it will result in straighter planks, and a lot less work. Since this wasn’t in the cards for me, I used my compact circular saw to rip each sheet into six 8″ planks. Once I had the first plank cut, I used the straight edge from that one as my guide (clamping it down on the board I was ripping) and it worked really well for the most part. It took me about 3.5 hours to do all 10 sheets of plywood, and though not perfect, the lines were pretty straight.
After the sheets were all ripped and stacked, it was time to begin the arduous task of sanding. I mentioned that I chose the lowest grade plywood I could, and this was strictly due to cost. When I do the smaller guest rooms and upstairs hallway, I might splurge on a higher grade plywood to eliminate some of the sanding, because it was a lot. It took me about 10-15 minutes per board to get them as smooth as I wanted. For me, the goal was to install plywood floors that look nothing like plywood floors. I don’t want people to say “Oh, you made that plywood look really nice.” I want them to say “Holy shit, that’s plywood?!” Plus, I don’t want any furry little feeties getting splinters, so they needed to be smooth as silk. (Ergo, all the sanding.) It really took all that nasty yellow, rough, plywood-y looking surface off the planks and transformed them into wide pine boards.
This step takes time and is a lot of work, but trust me it is so worth it to put in the extra effort here. Make sure you also bevel the edges of your planks with the sander to take down the harsh/splintery cut edges.
After about a month of sanding boards whenever I had some free time, the day arrived for the carpet to finally come out. I removed all the baseboard trim and took the bedroom and closet doors off to make installation easier.
I pulled up the carpet with some pliers starting in a corner and just kind of went from there, rolling it all into a pile in the middle of the room. It came up a lot easier than I had anticipated, but to get it out of there I had to cut it into three smaller strips with my utility knife and roll it up that way. Shit’s heavy. These two really didn’t want to let go of their beloved carpet. Every time I turned around they were back in there, giving me serious side eye.
Next the nasty foam underlay came out, and I also had to pry up all of the spiky-boards (official term) the carpet had been attached to around the perimeter of the room.
The final step in this process was to remove all of the staples from the floor. I used pliers, and also my screwdriver when needed.
If you want to paint the subfloor prior to installation, that is your call. I did not.
1. Because I was using a light stain, and
2. Because I am lazy
One advantage to painting the subfloor (or so I’ve read) is that it adds some protection against any potential moisture from spills, etc. Also, if you’re staining the floors a darker color, you might want to give the subfloor a coat of darker paint so it doesn’t show through any gaps after you install the planks. Since I knew I was staining the floor a very light color, this wasn’t an issue for me. Remember, I am not a flooring professional/expert! I am just some asshole on the internet pretending to know what she’s doing, so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
I started the first line of boards close to the bedroom door, because I eventually want to extend it into the hallway and other bedrooms. I read differing opinions on where to start your first row: some people say to start flush against one wall and some say to start in the middle. Because of where I started, the rows finish with half a board, and the planks overall look centered. Here is what I mean:
Each wall now ends with a thinner plank. If it would drive you crazy (like me) to have mismatched ending planks and you want the boards to look centered, you might want to do some quick measuring and see how the last boards you lay on each parallel wall will match up depending where you lay the first row. If that sort of thing doesn’t bother you, start on one side of the room and work your way across. (Make sure you start on a wall that is as square as humanly possible; otherwise your boards will become janky and crooked.)
After laying the first row, you just kind of go from there, laying another row then another then another. I did not use liquid nails or any type of adhesive in case we ever want to replace these floors. Nailing every 8 inches or so (lining up the nails on each side) and three in the ends of each plank was sufficient. If I had a stubborn plank that was bowed or did not want to lay flat, I would add a few more.
I did not butt the planks up flush with one another because I was worried about the floor buckling if the wood expanded with the seasons. In some spots I used a quarter to make sure there was a gap, in others I just eyeballed it. Because my cuts were not 100% precise, there is definitely a variation in the gaps between the boards, which is okay. Some are a little wide for my liking, but that really can’t be helped and I guess it adds to the character of the floor.
I staggered the boards as I was laying them, but didn’t adhere to any strict pattern. These floors are supposed to look imperfect, which is why this project was so appealing to me! When I needed a shorter board, I cut it to size with my miter saw. (Make sure when you’re using a board with a fresh cut edge, you re-sand/bevel it before nailing it down, unless the cut edge is going up against a wall.)
So that’s it! Take your time and have fun with it. It took me about 8 hours or so to lay all the planks, but would be faster if you had two people working at it the entire time. #passiveaggressivewife
The floor was looking pretty great at this point. There is one spot where the seams line up almost perfectly, and it really bothers me, but I’m trying to let it go because it’s too late now!
Matt helped me finish off the final pieces in the eleventh hour so I could start staining ASAP! I didn’t want the nicely sanded floors to sit unprotected for too long, all vulnerable and weak.
On to staining and finishing! Click here for part 2 of this tutorial, or skip to the good stuff and see the complete bedroom transformation here. If you’re curious about how these floors are holding up a year later: check out my update here.
I love it! We’ve been planning on doing this for a while now, a) I love hard wood. B) refuse to spend a million $$ when we have boys and gaint dogs And live in the country !
do you think renting a floor sander would be worth it?
Thanks J! I did consider renting a floor sander, and would it have saved me a lot of time and effort. To be honest I was really intimidated (read: terrified) at the thought of using one and was worried I would inadvertently ruin the planks since they are super soft wood. Also, I wanted to bevel all the edges, so I had to sand them by hand for that anyway. If you do end up laying these floors and using the floor sander, please let me know how it turns out! I want to finish our upstairs and that would probably be a lot faster! Thanks for commenting. 🙂
Dont usr a floor sander on plywood that has a maple or oak vaneer (or any other funiture grade). The vaneer is to thin. If its refular plywood, you could get away with it since its a very rough product anyway.
Good point, Dennis!
Hi Allison,
I want to do this to our entire house, using plywood as the new wood floors. My husband has some concerns about how “soft” the plywood would be, making it easier to scratch or dent with use. Did you experience this using the plywood? I personally don’t feel it will be as big an issue as he anticipates, since I do not see me moving a lot of furniture once it is in place, but he still has concerns. We are past the kid age in our life, and we just have 2 small dogs, and they are not hard on floors. Any insight you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for you time,
Pippi Patrick
Hi Pippi! Thanks for commenting and stopping by the blog. Yes, your husband is absolutely right: the plywood is quite soft. However, if you have no kids and your pups are small, I can confidently say you will have zero issues unless you make a habit of dragging grand pianos across the floor. My pups have scratched/gouged the floor near where they jump off the bed, but honestly you can barely see anything (I think the fact that I chose a light stain and a satin finish really helps) and besides that my dogs are INSANE! (And also not small!) If we didn’t have them, I can guarantee the floors would be as pristine as they were the first day. I keep meaning to take some pictures and give everyone an update: I’ll have to do that this weekend. I hope this helps!
We are starting our plywood flooring this week we have all our boards cut and ready to go. We are using a stain called special walnut, not dark same color as dirt lol. I will be posting pictures
Awesome Maria!! I hope you’ll share your progress!!
Great read and turned out beautiful. For missing gap, you could try to cut it now with a Drexel or something.
Thanks Ralf!
Really enjoyed reading this even though I’ve no thought about doing anything similar. I love your writing style and your sense of humour. My wife and I had a good giggle over breakfast today.
Well done.
Bob, thank you! I am really glad I could give you and your wife a smile; that’s what it is all about! 🙂
Hello! I have commented before but I’m back wondering how they are holding up? Anything you’d do different? Have you put them in any more rooms? We hope to have ours done this spring. We are in the process of figuring out our sub floor since under our carpet was only concrete:( Thanks!
Hi Kate! I just published a post with a bunch of FAQs and an update on how the floors are holding up if you want to check it out — it should answer any questions you have. Thanks for stopping by! 🙂
Wondering if you finished your floors and how you did it wiTh concrete sub floors! We have them too! Trying o figure out that part!!
Hi Carrie — I’m not sure I understand the question? My floors are finished (there is a part two of the tutorial linked at the bottom of the post) with Minwax Ultimate floor finish. I am afraid I cannot give you any advice on installing plywood flooring over concrete subfloor as our subfloors were plywood. Good luck!
Hey Allison, thanks for creating these blog post with such details. I checked out part ii and the 1 year after. Love how they turned out, and am very inspired to do this as well. Lots of other youtubers/bloggers may have covered some of the following questions i have, but i thought i might ask you. thanks in advance.
i) did you sand all sides of the plank? or did you leave out the bottom side to save time?
ii) how did you brad nail them down? face? angled?
Kevin, from Ontario
Hi Kevin! I’m glad you found my posts helpful! To answer your questions:
1) I only sanded the one side of the plank, and rounded/beveled the sides slightly with my sander to take down any splinters. I did not both sanding the side that would be facing the floor.
2) I face nailed my planks. At first I was worried I would have to go around and fill all the holes with wood putty, but you really can’t notice them at all, so I didn’t bother! I know some other people who have these floors used a combo of liquid nails (or other adhesive) and brad nails, but I didn’t find this to be necessary and I haven’t had any issues with boards coming up over the past year.
Good luck! If you have any more questions, just let me know!
Thanks for the prompt reply, Allison.
Pardon me if this is a double post. the first form submit failed, and i had to write this again. (still easier than sanding … )
Another question:
Did you use Spruce plywood?
I understand that prices vary from region to region, but i did go into CF Lumber and Home Depot yesterday ( Southern Ontario ).
3/8″x4’x8′ sheets of Spruce is about $20-23 cdn,
while pine plywood in the same size is well above $50.
note: I asked Home Depot about ripping the boards, and looks like they usually provide first 2 cuts for free; then it’s $1 each additional cut. Plus, they may not do rips anyways.
here is a photo of a sign/policy:
http://imgur.com/a/tBo5o
*policy might be different in the US
Hi Kevin! This is the plywood I used, it’s spruce and much cheaper than the pine (I think it was the cheapest option Home Depot had for that thickness): https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.38-inches-4-ftx8-ft-standard-spruce-plywood.1000173237.html
Thanks for the info about ripping the boards. Back when I did this, I had read a bunch of American tutorials where they’d had the store cut their planks for them no problem, but I remember seeing that sign you posted when I went to get my plywood and then feeling too shy to ask them (my how things have changed)! Also, I was self conscious that they would give me side eye or think I was insane for using D-Grade plywood as flooring! Not sure adding an extra $60 to have them cut it would be worth it for me or not…I am PRETTY cheap!
We want to do this to our floors this summer. I just wanted to know how do you keep dirt from between the planks?
Hi Maggie, I vacuum the floors regularly, about once a week.
I’m thinking about 6 inch wide planks instead of 8 inch, any thoughts pros or cons? Thanks dennis
Hi Dennis! I don’t think there are any pros and cons at all — it’s a personal thing and whatever you find the most aesthetically pleasing. I think 8″ would look great!
Just found this while trying to figure out what to do with my carpet (!) as I also have a dog – LOVE this look!
Also – in the States, our Home Depots have this (looks pre-sanded): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Underlayment-Common-7-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-196-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-431178/203183010. Not sure if they have this in Canada or if you decided not to use it for some reason. 💕
Hi Cheryl — we probably have it and I just didn’t notice!!! Definitely going to check it out for when I do the other rooms. Thanks for this! Could save a TON of time on sanding!
Hi Allison,
I’ve just come back from the local supply store, I’m going to use ⅝ Spruce plywood boards for this. One side is nicely finished, but I’ll definitely bevel the sides like you did. I’m curious about your choice of nails…in that, why did you choose to use nails and not screws?
Also, how did you decide on a thickness? Was it price based or something else? I want a feel of real solidity underfoot, but do you think ⅝ is overkill? Thanks for all.
Hi Nancy! I used nails because I thought they would be less conspicuous and I didn’t have to cover them up (you don’t nice that they’re there) whereas I think screws would be a lot more noticeable. It was strictly an aesthetic choice rather than anything else. The thickness was mostly based on price, and also a couple of tutorials I read — it seemed like that was the size most people used so I went with it, and it feels really solid so if you’re worried about that, don’t be! I don’t think 5/8 is overkill, but keep in mind you might have to shorten any doors to account for the extra thickness after install. Good luck!
Holy shit that’s plywood?!! 😂 Awesome and inspiring work there Allison! I love reading your blog! I have in fact been inspired to do this in a very large area upstairs (1000 sq ft). It is the most affordable and likeable solution I have seen. I will also be using 3/8 pine plywood that is presanded. I have found some at Lowes for about $18 a sheet. I plan on staining with Minwax Ebony stain which will be pretty dark but I think will give me the effect I want…which is to look like an old Pub floor. We shall see! Thank you for sharing! I have been inspired by you to try this myself!
Troy
HAHAHAHA Troy I see what you did there! Send pictures of your floors when you’re finished: I’d love to see how it turns out with the darker stain!
Well, I am impressed! I am a DIY kinda gal. I want to help my dear friend who needs help with her home but can’t afford it. So, I do mind helping her. Anyway, I have read so much but your write up is the best. Thanks for sharing.
Philly
Thank you for the comment Phyllis!
If you use a dremmel tool…handheld vibrating saw. You could easily cut through 2 feet of either side of that seem. And stick a 4′ piece in there.
Hi!
Gorgeous floors!
Checking in to see if any ambering ever occurred?
We are looking to do a similar floor, but we do NOT want them to yellow!
Hi Becky! I am very happy to report that they are as whitewashed as the day I clear coated them! I cannot rave enough about the Minwax ultimate floor finish. I too was very worried the floors would yellow over time, but it’s been almost two years and they still look great!
I noticed thats a Canadian quarter. I was just thinking about the swelling of the boards. How did it fair for you. Where I live in Canada it gets nasty cold for the winters
Hi Chris: there hasn’t been any swelling or shrinking at all that I’ve noticed (I live in NS, for reference — the weather here fluctuates a ton). It is worth mentioning that another commenter pointed out that plywood is manufactured in a way that is supposed to prevent it from swelling/shrinking with the seasons…but I was too paranoid not to leave a gap!
Allison, question re using treated plywood for a basement floor over concrete using treated strips to allow for ventilation – also trying treated plywood to cover an existing deck that has treated 2×6 16′ pine as the decking currently. Thanks for sharing, however I think you missed your calling. You are good at DIY, but the narrative and commentary could make you a fortune if put to use with Mike Holmes or This Old House. Those guys are good, but they need to lighten up a bit.
Steve
Haha, thank you Steve — you are too kind! I must apologize, I’m not sure what your question is? If you mean do I think you could use treated plywood over a concrete subfloor, I honestly cannot say either way as our sub-floors were plywood — however I do know that lots of people have had success putting plywood flooring down over concrete so I think there must be a way to do it — but unfortunately I can’t be of much help!
Hey! So we are going to do this in our bedrooms! Carpet is gross with dogs and humans! Can you tell me the square footage of your room? Or how to figure out how many sheets you need! I’m hoping our Lowe’s or Home Depot will rip for me! So we have concrete subfloors…what do you recommend on attaching them? My husband said to put down a base layer and glue to it…not sure that will work?? I can not wait to do this! So economicial and so much better than laminate..i hate the sound they make with dog toenails
Hi Carrie! To figure out the square footage of a space, multiply the length of the room by the width. For example, a 12ft x 10ft room would be 120sqft. One sheet of 4×8 plywood is 32sqft. My room was about 300 sqft, so I needed 10 sheets of plywood. (I bought 11 just to be on the safe side and to account for cut waste, etc.) I hope that helps!